PugetSailor.com

Five days of squirting through narrow passages in a small sailboat, flying all sail, motoring against contrary currents, having a sailing partner and a buddy boat, porpoises, eagles, great geology and landforms, and challenging currents — the marvels of the San Juan Islands translated into a great August boating trip.

Overview

A short video taken from JoJoma is available here.

• Friday, August 10 — Kokomo and Whisper launched on Friday and tied up overnight in the commercial boat section at Squalicum Harbor Marina.
• Saturday, August 11 — JoJoma arrived at daybreak. Fog in Rosario Strait delayed our departure until noon. We motored out of Bellingham Bay, and sailed and motorsailed up Hale Passage. A strong current in Rosario Strait flushed the three Potters northward, and late in the day we motored against the current to reach Echo Bay on Sucia Island, where all three boats tied up to a linear moorage line.
• Sunday, August 12 — An 8:00 am departure for all three boats also marked the group splitting up. Kokomo headed back across Rosario Strait for a solo return to Bellingham, with some sailing, a reef tucked in, and a safe return to port. JoJoma and Whisper rounded the south end of Sucia Island, transited President Channel, then followed New Channel along the north side of Spieden Island to reach Reid Harbor on Stuart Island.
• Monday, August 13 — JoJoma and Whisper timed their departure to transit Spieden Channel along the south side of Spieden Island at near slack, but the boats were chased by the incoming tide as they entered San Juan Channel. Near Friday Harbor, another tide rip slowed the boats to a crawl.
• Tuesday, August 14 — Another timed departure allowed the boats to pass through Upright Channel relatively easily. We took a side trip up East Sound to see Rosario Resort, then stayed overnight at Olga.

• Wednesday, August 15 — This was the most challenging day, with Rosario Strait current flushing us south off our route. We made very slow progress until we passed between Cypress Island and Towhead Island. After that, there was good sailing across Bellingham Channel and halfway through Bellingham Bay, arriving late in the day at Squalicum Harbor Marina.

Friday, August 10: Trail the boat to Bellingham and launch

We left home before lunchtime and trailed Whisper up Interstate 5 to Bellingham, hours ahead of a major traffic restriction in the Seattle area. On Friday morning, Squalicum Harbor Marina staff emailed us different directions to find the marina, and except for taking one wrong turn, it was a much easier route. I will definitely use their route next time!

Kokomo was already launched when we arrived, so we talked with Dan as he helped us rig Whisper for launch. We walked to Squalicum Harbor Marina office to pay for overnight moorage, and because the visitor spots were full, we were situated in long slips in the commercial boats section.

After a nice dinner at the Sensa restaurant and some rearranging of the boat, we spent a quiet night at the dock.

Friday photos

Saturday, August 11: Cross Rosario Strait for Sucia Island

Saturday dawned bright but with thick fog hugging the water in Rosario Strait. JoJoma arrived about 7:00 am after spending the night on the road at a rest stop.

By mid-morning, all boats were together in the commercial boat section, but we delayed our departure until the fog lifted around noon. With a south wind and a delayed departure, we made up some time by motorsailing southwest across Bellingham Bay, then rounding the south end of Portage Island.

Once in Hale Passage, some patches of wind encouraged us to shut off our motors. Riding the northbound tide, we occasionally reached speeds of 8 knots under sail. Those exhilirating moments were punctuated by lulls of slack wind under the warm August sun.

Rounding the north end of Lummi Island, we passed south of the Point Migley buoy and pointed our bows toward Matia Island. Winds became lighter and we eventually motorsailed across. Approaching Sucia Island, we saw several porpoises.

In my trip planning, I underestimated the amount of current in Rosario Strait. We were inexorably pushed northward off our planned track, and didn't realize how far we had come until we started seeing Rosario Strait buoys.

I pulled out the binoculars and suddenly realized I could no longer see into Echo Bay on Sucia Island. Instead, I was looking at the north side of Sucia Island and shoals. We turned southward and motored against the building current until we could see into Echo Bay, then turned and made the entrance.

A quick tour of the harbor showed all buoys taken, and many boats at anchor. We chose to tie to the linear moorage for the night. Tom, JoJoma's skipper, put together his origami canoe while I pumped and pumped and pumped to inflate our dinghy for the trip to the beach.

We covered 21.7 nautical miles in our six-hour transit.

Saturday photos

Sunday, August 12: One boat returns to Bellingham and two press on to Stuart Island

With a late arrival on Saturday at Sucia Island and an early departure scheduled on Sunday, we had little time to enjoy Sucia Island. (Last year, some of us made the passage on Friday and spent Saturday exploring the island.) A light sea mist greeted us as we untied from the linear moorage at 8:00 am. There was some fog out in Rosario Strait, but it looked like it would lift soon.

Kokomo headed eastward out the main Echo Bay entrance, while JoJoma and Whisper passed eastward between North and South Finger Islands, waving to Dan as we disappeared from view. As we emerged from between the fingers, we could see Kokomo to the north with all sail up, bright blue stripes above a white hull in the morning sunshine. Dan later reported encountering quite a chop in Rosario Strait, and heaving to while he reefed his sail.

JoJoma and Whisper rounded the southeast corner of Sucia Island and headed southwest for President Channel, raising sail and enjoying some quiet sailing. As we approached the north end of President Channel, the sound of rushing water grew, and the chop on the water become chaotic and more pronounced. Soon, it sounded like a river, and we were in the middle of it.

North of us passed two large sailboats reaching under full sail. In President Channel, a south wind allowed us to beat to windward as we worked our way down the channel and eventually left the tide rips behind us.

As we neared Jones Island to port and Spieden Island to starboard, the wind increased. Whisper dropped sail and motored while JoJoma motorsailed into New Channel on the north side of Spieden Island. With swirling currents, we stayed well away from the rocky shore of Spieden Island. From a distance we could see a small group of grazing animals that looked like antelope, but I was too busy handling the boat to grab the binoculars for a closer look.

As we transited New Channel with the forested north shore of Spieden Island to port and the Cactus Islands to starboard, we saw dozens of white teepees on Johns Island, probably a Scout camp.

Near the northwest end of New Channel, we watched other boats to see where they were entering Reid Harbor, and followed their path into the large, well-sheltered harbor. Even though we were visiting during peak season, there was dock space for Whisper. JoJoma dropped anchor at the edge of the buoy field on the mirrored bay.

We covered 18.1 nautical miles in four hours and 15 minutes of boating.

After getting our boats settled in the harbor, we embarked on a hike to Turn Point. With no map and no clear idea of where we were going, we were pleasantly surprised to see plenty of signage directing folks like us to Turn Point. We passed Stuart Island School, a one-room schoolhouse, then passed by the island cemetery.

Descending a steep road, we dropped down from the last hill to Turn Point where porpoises, ships and a huge tidal rip amused us as we ate snacks on the lighthousekeeper's steps.

Sunday photos

Monday, August 13: Through Spieden Channel to Friday Harbor

A mid-day departure from Stuart Island allowed us to transit Spieden Channel near slack tide. Motoring against the current, we passed close to the southern shore. While the north side of Spieden is forested, the south side is dominated by grasses. Again, we saw small groups of animals that looked like antelope.

As we neared the southeast end of Spieden Channel, we stayed near the island because tide rips were growing increasingly strong between Spieden and Limestone Point on San Juan Island. Waves were rolling toward the northeast, and they were large enough to make it very uncomfortable when we tried to turn southward to enter San Juan Channel. We let the waves chase us well out into San Juan Channel before making our turn.

Whisper motored to Friday Harbor, while JoJoma sailed and motorsailed the channel.

Arriving in mid-afternoon on a nice August day, I wasn't too surprised to have some trouble finding temporary moorage in the marina. What did surprise me was that by early evening, many spots had been vacated. Where did all the boats go? Were many of the spots taken by boats just in for a couple of hours? Where did they come from? I found it very odd to be in a very busy marina and have more spots available in the evening than during the day.

Our four-hour passage covered 13.8 nautical miles.

After showers and dinner, skippers and crew of both boats went to the movie theater and watched The Bourne Ultimatum.

Monday photos

Tuesday, August 14: Upright Channel to East Sound and Olga

We left Friday Harbor via the narrow channel to the south of Brown Island, and aimed the boats for Mount Baker. I estimated currents in Upright Channel using the Harney Channel prediction, and that worked well. We had some head current to motor through, but once past Flat Point, the current moderated substantially.

While JoJoma sailed toward East Sound, Whisper ducked south to peak at Lopez Island, then turned to sail toward East Sound. Both boats sailed and motorsailed against the wind as we wandered up the Sound to Rosario Resort, then turned back and pulled in at Olga. Whisper found a spot at the community dock with overnight moorage only 40 cents a foot. JoJoma dropped anchor near the dock at the edge of the buoy field.

After wandering the quaint, quiet town of Olga, we headed to Café Olga for dinner. Arriving too early for dinner, we sat outside at a table and sipped drinks until 5:00 pm. I was surprised to be asked if we had a reservation. It was good that we arrived early, because some people were later turned away because they didn't have a reservation. We had a great meal and look forward to returning on another trip.

We sailed and motored 14.5 nautical miles in five-and-a-half hours.

Tuesday photos

Wednesday, August 15: Obstruction Pass, Rosario Strait and Bellingham

After a quiet night sheltered from the north wind, we were eager to be off on Wednesday. This was to be a long day, but little did we know that the 20-mile trip would become 27 miles!

We left Olga earlier than planned, and instead of taking the longer route through Peavine Pass, we followed a boat through Obstruction Pass. That put us into Rosario Strait farther north and earlier than planned.

The closer we got to Cypress Island, the stronger was the Rosario current. As we were swept down the strait, we turned toward Towhead Island and watched our speed drop to a knot...and much of that speed was sideways as we were ferried across the strait toward the rocky shore of Cypress Island. Still, we were making progress until JoJoma had motor problems.

We nearly made the head of the island a couple of times only to be flushed down the strait as JoJoma's motor faltered. Eventually, we decided to head away from Cypress Island, toward the eastern side of Orcas Island where the current was less strong. From there, we turned back toward the pass between Cypress and Towhead islands and eventually popped through into Bellingham Channel.

With sails up we enjoyed some spirited sailing as wind blasted down on us through the channel. As we passed the south end of Lummi Island, we reefed Whisper's sail to give us a more comfortable motion. Once in Bellingham Bay, we shook out the reef and sailed for a while, but as the wind slowly become lighter, we realized we wouldn't get to port until dark. We motorsailed the rest of the way to the marina where we tied up in visitor moorage for the night.

In an eight-hour passage we covered 26.9 nautical miles.

JoJoma pulled out and headed south down the highway as darkness fell. The next day, we had a slow morning as we cleaned up and pulled Whisper out of the water.

Wednesday photos